There and Back Again...

"A man becomes a man when he reaches the ends of his means and manages to still live afterwards"

-Alex Hansen, a good friend

Folks, I'm Done. I'm back in Albuquerque, dry and warm.

I reached the Canadian border and northern terminus on the 28th of September, cold wet, exhausted and happy.

It was hard to find motivation to get back on the trail at Snoqualmie Pass, but after a couple days off and what looked to be a break in the weather Train and I hit the trail, ready to make one big final push to the end. The first day held no rain , but the clouds were heavy and dark. Each day in this section required us to gain 3,000 feet, lose it... regain it again and then lose it, making it the most notorious climbing on the entire trail. But what a spectacular landscape, nothing in my book quite compares to the Cascades. People ask me 'how was washington' and i simply put i tell them its 'best of times and the worst of times'... because just when the magic of the landscape can take you no higher, the precipitation starts... and it becomes a struggle not only to continue hiking but to keep yourself alive.

Its hard to really describe the following days because it was mostly keeping my head down and just banging out the miles to stay in motion and somewhat warm. As I described in the last blog entry the rain doesnt stop and eventually everything gets wet and all my awesome expensive gear basically loses all functionality and I basically become walking sack of wet laundry. When hypothermia begins to set in, thats when things get bad. On several occasions I lost function of my fingers and became very disoriented and Train said several times i wasnt saying things that made sense... but I could say the same for him. When things always seems to be in the worst possible place, the sun would come out for a few minutes an the rain would let up a bit.

One of the benefits of the cold rain is the non-stop moving and no breaks, knocking out alot of miles became easier and in the town of Skykohmish we were able to finally catch Trains original party, the MeGaTex at Rainy Pass, 60 miles before the border. It was one of the happiest moments on the trail because Axilla's father had 'trail magic' set up for them there at highway 20 so when we rolled up they had beer and pizza and all sorts of good food, and a car blasting Outkast, it was sort of the last celebration party before the end of the trail. We had a blast and it was pretty fun rolling 11 people deep to the border, it was by far the most people I've ever hiked with.

MeGaTex is a core of three guys who hiked the Appalachian Trail together in '08. Uncle Tom from Maine (ME), General Lee from Georgia (GA) and formally Richard Wizzard from Texas (TEX)... add it up MeGaTex. On this PCT adventure they added Train, Axilla, Duff, Wizz's younger brother The Mayor, Genius and more recently Pony and Bear who i've met several times. And the next few days to the finish were like summer camp with all these characters to hike around and with. The first day coming out of Rainy Pass was bright and sunny and awesome. I hiked mostly with D-Wizz and we had the most trail conversation that i've had since Brandon left. It was awesome. A unique aspect about the last bit of trail is that it bounces from pacific NW rainy forrest to dry desert mountains as we weaved in and out of the rain shadow that creates the deserts of eastern washington.

To keep it short, it rained off and on the last 3 days to the border and we all crossed within about and hour of each other. But unfortunately, thats not where Train, The Mayor and My journey ended. Since we didnt have our passports in order (Mine was Stolen in Prague in 06) we all had to hike back 35 miles on the trail to a forest service road where had arranged a pick up from Genius (the Mayor's girlfriend he met on the trail 4 months ago back in Agua Dulce). We said our goodbyes to the whole crew but the day we left the border coming back ended up being the worst day of wind and rain we had in the entire state, but somehow knowing it was the last day it didnt seem so bad. On the way back we passed several old friends making their way to the border including Fuzzy Monkey. Everybody had big smiles on their faces knowing they were so close. We made camp 6 miles before the road, and the next day there wasnt a cloud in the sky and it was the clearest day we had since 3 weeks before in Goat Rocks. What a day to end the trail.

The trip back to Seattle didnt go as planned, as Genius's car broke down along the service road before she got to us and long story short Train and I ended up riding in the back of an contractors work van for 3 hours from the tiny mountain town of Mazama all the way to just outside of the greater Seattle area, where Trains mom picked us up... Genius and the Mayor got a ride in the tow truck. I had a great weekend hangin out and partying it up with some friends from the trail and then my boys Luke and Clint from my Seattle days. Then I flew back and I'm here now. Alive and Happy.

In the next couple days after I have processed things, I'll write a "so long" blog entry and i guess explain what the adventure has meant to me and what i've learned about myself and life, maybe write something meaningful. who knows.

Ups and Downs and Up&Downs

First I would like to apologize for taking nearly a month to update the blog. Computers have been few and far between and its hard to find the motivation to do anything other than eat and pass out at the end of a long day so I havnt really written anything down.

I'm currently at Snoqualmie Pass at I-90, mile 2401. These are my old stomping grounds as we're just 45 minutes up the road from Seattle. Since I gloated and bragged about my speed and total domintion of the Oregon PCT, the trail quickly flipped on me and let me know who is in charge...

Upon returning from the "break" weekend in Portland and Casacde Locks, the pacific NW rains began to set in. And made for by far the most miserable week (to that point) of the trail. Miles of snow feilds and blistering desert heat dont compare to constant rain. Eventually everything gets wet, everything. The worst part was that we missed some of the best scenery OR and the trail had to offer; Three Sisters, Mt Washington, 3 Finger Jack, and Mt Jefferson. We basically had to keep our heads down and power through the 20 feet of visibilty for over a 100 miles.

Our luck did began to change when we arrived to Cascade Locks (this time hiking in) and spent a couple days drying out and hangin out with Brandon. The Eagle Creek trail coming into the town was one the coolest parts of the trail. You basically follow the creek down a gorge to the border. The trail offers plenty of waterfalls and bridges but the jewel of the trail is Tunnel Falls where the trail actually goes through a blasted tunnel behind the 150 foot falls.

After crossing the Bridge of the Gods into Washington a group of about 14 thru-hikers and I decided to take the "alternate" route through the towns of Stevnson and Carson, which saves about 15 miles and basically becomes the unofficial PCT Pub Crawl... long story short we raged it pretty hard in all 3 cities and celebrated properly for making to WA.

Our first week in Washington was easily the most scenic and rewarding week on the trail. I've been hiking steadily with Train and his childhood friend "Croation Sensation" and his girlfriend "Not a Chance" (both have thru-hiked the PCT before) and the one and only "AssFace". We all have a lot of fun together and its made for a very uplifting week. Hiking around the lower slopes of Mt Adams was incredible. Nothing so far has compared to the Goat Rocks Wilderness though. Its been awhile since we've been in high alpine country. But the vistas from the tops the Goat Rocks of Rainier, St Helens and Adams were in my opinion the best views of the entire trail. This wilderness also includeda couple glacier crossings and a 2 mile section called the "Knifes Edge" where the trail strattles a ridge that has shear drop-offs of 1000 feet down each side.

But once again the trail does what it wants, and while we got an extremly rare clear and sunny week in southern washington (most hikers rarely get to see the 3 stratovolcanoes from Goat Rocks) the gloom and doom of the NW rain came back with a fury and the 4 days of hiking since leaving White Pass have been extremly difficult and depressing to be honest. The rain here has been colder and harder than the Oregon section. And walking through the over-grown vegitation is like walking through a human car wash. My feet are taking a beating, Train has developed Trench Foot and mine arent doing much better. Even with proper rain gear (which i now have, I didnt in Oregon) everything gets soaked through eventually; my clothes, tent (inside and out) and my sleeping bag. Its been easily the most miserable week of my life. And every morning i wake up cold and wet, this trail tests my resolve to the fullest. Its hard to find motivation to keep going. We've taking a few days to dry things out and watch some football, but going forward continues to a difficult task.

I'm in limbo and need some sun. Fingers crossed that this weather breaks and I can continue a bit more happily. However the weather forcast looks liek rain the rest of the way. Just 10 days of hiking left and i've purchased my ticket back to Albuquerque for tuesday the 5th so there is a definitive end in sight. I just dont want to hit the finish line miserable and unhappy with the trail. Got to get back at it, this next section is one of the most difficult sections as far as climbing goes. We'll see.

Fording the River, the Oxen drowned, Brandon got Tuberulosis

Camping at Cascade Locks, you literally stare into Washington, separated only by this tiny little river known as the Columbia River. You know, the last river you have to ford in Oregon Trail to win the game. Oh you don't? You must've had a broken axle or ran out of food already.

Flying out to meet up with Caleb and Train, I realized this was going to be a different type of journey. Meeting up with them, I realized, they were, as its known in the movies "in it." 30 mile days, 4 mph walking pace, a beard that would make a Canadian blush, and a trail reputation to back up their exploits. It took us a few days to meet up, as it was dumping rain the first several days (it does that in the Pacific Northwest) and they were coming down from Mt. Hood, around yet another fire detour, and coming to their lowest point on the trail, seeing me again. Wait...

I was fortunate to get to spend some time in Portland with a good friend of mine, John. And, I take full credit for discovering that the only public transportation route from Portland to Cascade Locks. However, once the rain had resided, and as I was sitting at Cascade Locks after hiking the infamous Eagle Creek Trail, talking with thru hiker after thru hiker, tracking Caleb and Train only as a knowledgeable ex-thru hiker can, I realized to myself, I was no longer "in it." My drive, and motivation, had somehow vanished. I'm not sure if it melted with the rain, or if it was the lure of other adventures, but I realized that I would only stare at Washington, that Washington was saved as a crown jewel for those who had scraped through the entire state of California, and torched Oregon in their paths.

So, John graciously drove to Cascade Locks to pick me up so we could go into Portland and catch the Tennessee opening game. Approximately midway through the 3rd quarter, I could sense it, a creature resembling Harry and the Hendersons sat right next to me with a joyous "How ARE You?!". It was Caleb. My god, what a beard this man had grown. Caleb, Train, John, and I enjoyed a night out on the town in Portland. The next day, we made it to breakfast, and then the airport where I was given a fairly sweet deal on a rental car for the next several days. It was my full intention to hike Mt. St. Helens and drive down to Crater Lake, hiking around the rim, before I returned back to Tennessee. I've always dreamt of visiting both places. The destruction at Mt. St. Helens is absolutely humbling, and Crater Lake is something every man, woman, and beast should see in their lifetime.

So, in summary, if you were asking yourself the question "What is going on here?" This is what is going on. Brandon spent nearly two weeks self-exploring the Northwest, spent close to a week with Caleb, who can feel the end of trip. I would note, for those whom text with him, that cell phone coverage will be very spotty as his next stops are White Pass (rumor has it he is already there), Steven's Pass (Snoqualmie near Seattle), Skykomish, WA, and Stehekin, WA. And then? Well... that's it.

If I were betting, I'd bet he has 3 weeks left. If you pray, pray for good weather for Caleb. If you don't, cross your fingers for Caleb.

Blevins. Out.

Crater Lake and Oregon

"America is all about speed - hot, nasty bad-ass speed .~"Eleanor Roosevelt.

Well I've been flying through Oregon. All the rumors were true, this by far has been the fastest and flattest section of the trail. Train and I have been moving at about a 4 mph pace and doing 30+ mile days like no one's business. I'm not sure if its my ipod Julia sent me to Ashland, the new shoes or the terrain, or maybe just being a well built hiking machine at this point but I'm definitely killing the miles.

Currently I am in a very nice hotel in Portland. Train's parents drove down from Seattle and picked us up off the trail for a weekend of relaxation here and over in Cascade Locks. The Widmaiers have been wonderful to me, treating us to a nice dinner and putting us up in the hotel where the tvs and showers actually work. (We're used to staying in the cheapest motel we can find in towns)

Cascade Locks is the border-town between OR/WA on the mighty Colombia River, which the trail runs directly through. They are having a big celebration and all sorts of activities for thru-hikers called 'PCT Days' this weekend. We were about 150 miles short of making it via trail, so thats why they've picked us up so we can partake in all the fun. We'll actually make the town by trail in a week or so. It should be fun, the PCTA has purchased two kegs for us, so that oughta make for a good time.

While Oregon hasn't had many towns, we've run through many mountain and lake resorts where they treat us like folk heroes because we've hiked so far. Free ice cream, pizza, beer, showers and camping have been some of the few perks they've thrown at us. Its been awesome.

The highlight of not only Oregon but perhaps the whole trail has definitely been Crater Lake. I've always wanted to go there since i was a kid when I did a project on it for school. I've seen many incredible things in my life, but I dont think I've seen anything so breath-taking as this natural phenomenon. Much like the Grand Canyon, pictures will never do it justice, and its something you have to see with your own eyes. The water was the bluest blue I've ever seen. The trail ran along the rim for about 8 miles, and while it was the steepest and most difficult part of the trail so far, every climb was worth the effort to get a different perspective of the lake. If anyone ever has the oppurtunity to visit Crater Lake NP, please dont pass it up.

Brandon flies into tomorrow night to Portland and we'll get back on the trail Monday at the Three Sisters National Forest. Its gonna be good to have him back. We're still on target to finsih by the end of September. Already real world issues are starting to creep back in my head like "What am i going to do when i'm done?" But i'm still very much living in the moment.

For those of you who dont know, my mother has been in and out of the hospital with stomach,liver,glabladder issues for the last 2 weeks. Please keep her in your prayers, I wish i could be there for her. Its a good thing her plans to visit at this time didnt work out, i might had to perform emergency surgury with my swiss army knife.

Huge Picture Update

All,

Caleb sent in his picture card. Check out all the new pictures tracking his journey. He has many videos that need converting as well.

http://picasaweb.google.com/blevinschurch/CalebSPCT

If anyone out west wants to meet up with Caleb, he will be at PCT Days at Cascade Locks August 26-28th near Portland, OR. Stop by, support the Pacific Crest Trail, meet other hikers, and get Caleb's autograph!

I'll be rejoining Caleb following PCT days. I'm scared of the limelight.

Send him lots of good stuff, the trip has 4-5 weeks left!

Brandon

Man vs Food

Well, I made it out of California. I didn't get every mile done in the state that I wanted, but it feels good to make it to Oregon. Mentally, it feels downhill from here on. Oregon is the flattest section of the trail, so hopefully it'll only take 2.5-3 weeks to make it to Washington.

Coming out of Etna through the Marble Mountain Wilderness was a real treat. Large granite mountains and plenty of lakes made for some wonderful photos. From Etna it took only 2.5 days to make it to Seiad Valley, home of the Seid Valley Cafe's infamous 5lb pancake challenge. I took it on with a fury. Long story short, I hit the proverbial wall after about 2 of the 1lb cakes. But not wanting to go down with only 2 gone, I powered through and was able to get a 3rd and half of the 4th. The owner said it was the 2nd best showing she had seen in 2 years. Only 18 people have beat the challenge in 22 years, last in '06. She told me most only get 1-1.5 lbs down before they throw in the towel. Although I failed, I still gave a "world-class effort." Downside? It put me out of commission for about 3 hours. We ended up staying the night and made the last 5,000 foot climb of the PCT out of Seiad.

The following day we hit the border and continued onto Ashland, OR, home of the world's largest Shakespeare festival. Ashland is a wonderful little town with a very hippie-shiek feel. Train and I took a couple of zero days to explore all the micro-breweries. We also met back up with Sunseeker. We're hitting the trail today and are planning to really crank out big miles to get through the state. I'm very excited to knock Crater Lake off my bucket list which is only 100 miles away. The only town near the trail between Ashland and Washington border is Sisters, so if you want to send me anything awesome (which I highly encourage) then please do.

Hold for James Church

General Delivery

Sisters, OR 97759

DonahuePass